Hardy orchids can be grown outdoors in a variety of locations, such as raised beds, large pots, flower borders, rockeries, in the shade of trees or shrubs, and in bog gardens. My personal favourite is to grow them in wildflower meadows, where they look most natural. Whether these are small garden mini-meadows or larger fields many of our orchids do best in what is often their preferred habitat, and they are the icing on the cake of the meadow itself.

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Most of the growing considerations for the greenhouse apply just the same to orchids in a meadow, but of course the plants are less cosseted and more buffeted outdoors, so there are some extra issues to deal with. Clearly one should only plant out a species into a habitat that is suitable; is the soil alkaline, neutral, or acid? Is it too wet and water-logged in winter or too dry and baked in summer? Too shady or not shady enough? Is it too fertile with a high grass sward that will smother the orchid? Can anything be done artificially to make the conditions more suitable, at least over a small area?

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It must be understood that although some orchids planted out survive well, there is also a significant failure rate. Success probably depends heavily on the plant forming mutualistic partnerships with the soil fungi that it needs in order to thrive. If the plant already has the right fungus in its roots, this should help to establish it. We have no way of knowing in advance if our soil is going to be supportive. A meadow made from a neglected, untreated lawn on thin, chalky soil is the best bet. The only way, however, is to try what you have. Sometimes orchids thrive in unlikely places!

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Planting out

Having chosen a suitable location then choose the right time to plant out. It is too risky in the coldest depths of winter and the hottest throes of summer. Autumn is a good time, since any mess from digging and trampling doesn’t matter, but would spoil the look of the meadow in its spring glory. However I also plant full-sized orchids in early spring as they are not deterred from progressing to flower a few weeks later. There is the certainty of at least one flowering with a good chance of seed-set and dispersal around the meadow. Planting a tuber in autumn may be the last time you ever see it! Also, I would advise never to plant out small-sized, immature orchids for the same reason. Better to fatten them up in the greenhouse first.

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Make a planting hole, putting the plant or tuber in at a fairly shallow depth with some compost, closing off the top with a thin chunk or flap of meadow, then giving it a moderate watering in. One approach is to make a relatively large hole compared to the orchid size, then back-filling it with plenty of the pot compost. The hole can be dug with a trowel or bulb planter. Use the top half inch of removed turf as protection by pressing it back down over the tuber or around the base of the plant stem. Another good way is to make two cross-cuts with a spade and scoop out soil from under the 4 flaps. Plant the orchid or tuber with some compost and then firm the flaps back down around or over it. The meadow is less disturbed and “heals” over the top faster this way.

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After-care is mainly concerned with protection from members of the animal kingdom. This includes, but is not limited to, slugs, snails, squirrels, foxes, deer, dogs, kids, and grown-ups. You will know best how you want to repel these threats. One measure I strongly recommend is to peg down a small 6 x 6 inch square of chicken wire over the top of the planting hole. This stops the plant being immediately dug up by curious animals such as foxes and squirrels. It can be carefully removed after a few weeks, when the smell of freshly dug soil has gone.

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In other outdoor locations around the garden the same procedures can be used as above. Raised beds or large pots can be covered to avoid being too wet in winter. Protect pots from hard frost. Rockeries are potentially much better than flower borders as they can give space, low fertility, and good drainage.

 

 

Which species?

Most Marsh orchids (Dactylorhiza) can be grown in wildflower meadows or any other garden locations. Among the more commonly available orchids Pyramidal (A. pyramidalis), Green-winged (A. morio), Loose-flowered (A. laxiflora), Bee (O apifera), Fragrant (G. conopsea) and Twayblade (N. ovata) are also suitable for meadows. Epipactis species often prefer woodland-edge conditions and go well in partially shaded pots or raised beds. The Marsh Helleborine (Epipactis palustris), however grows in sunny, damp, alkaline habitats. Cypripedium species and hybrids can make a fine display outdoors in a frost and wind-sheltered, partially shady spot. This could be in the ground at the foot of shrubs or trees, or in raised beds or large pots. It is advisable to routinely cover them from rain in winter. Late frosts in spring can damage developing flower buds.

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