It is well known that some orchids, through mimicry in the appearance and scent of the flower, are pollinated by just one particular species of insect. Thus seed is not set unless the pollinator is present in the habitat. However, many of the orchids that can grow and flower in our gardens are not so demanding, and do have a high chance of being pollinated. This is because common insects such as bees, hoverflies, ants, and others often act as pollinators. They can sometimes do their work in the greenhouse too, but it’s better to bring the pots temporarily outside to a sunny spot, near other flowers. As a last resort poke a pencil into the flower to pick up the sticky pollinia. These can, in turn, be poked onto the stigmatic area of a different flower, ideally on a different plant. It is difficult to do with smaller individual orchid flowers, though.

 

​

​

​

​

The pollinated flower quickly dies away to leave a swelling, green seed pod. This turns brown after about 3 to 7 weeks maturation, depending on the species and the amount of sunshine. When ready to dehisce the pod splits longitudinally and seeds start to blow out on the wind. Collect the pod just before this happens! It should be brown but not yet split open. Allow it to dry out fully for two weeks in an unwaxed paper envelope. Eventually all the seeds fall out and can be separated from the pod debris. It is good practice to remove all debris in case it causes the seeds to rot in storage. The seeds are very tiny and can blow away, so be careful of air currents. Catch the seeds in the fold of a clean piece of paper and move them around with a soft paintbrush. If you have a microscope it is worth checking to see that there are plenty of fat, round embryos visible within the seed coat (testa). An empty testa is non-viable seed, of course.

 

​

​

​

​

If storing them for the long term they must be dried to the correct extent by standing over baked rice for 2 weeks in a sealed jam jar. I make a small cup from aluminium foil to house the seeds. Correct drying is important because if stored while moisture remains they can easily go mouldy. The seeds can then be stored inside a packet made from a much-folded piece of paper, sellotaped at the edges. Don’t underestimate the seeds’ ability to escape! A small, sealed specimen tube or similar is even better. Label and store in a cool, dry, dark place. Seeds can be kept this way in a fridge for many years and still be viable. If posting them it is best to do so in a folded and sealed paper packet that is protected between 2 layers of bubblewrap inside the posting envelope - just in case they might be crushed during transit.

​